Al-Amn Magazine

their fiefdoms during the short-lived Frankish Kingdom of Jerusalem.  Also south of Amman lies Madaba, the Christian city that’s famous for its ancient mosaic floor that’s the oldest map of the Holy Land in the entire world. In the very south of the country lies Aqaba, the port city and gateway to Egypt and Saudi Arabia. World War I history buffs will recall that T.E. Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia) led his famous assault on the Ottoman Turks at Aqaba. But even if history doesn’t fascinate you, the many Red Sea resorts lining the beaches of Aqaba should draw your interest.  Today, several churches line the site, which remains an important pilgrimage point for Christians around the world. Every direction you go in Jordan, you’ll uncover a new historical treasure.  The majesty of Petra I only spent a day exploring this Nabataean settlement, but its impact looms large in my imagination. It starts with the walk along the Siq, the winding fissure that leads to the Treasury, and only the beginning of its many tombs and buildings set throughout the valley on the edge of Wadi Musa. The Siq twists and turns left and right, with the endless variety of sediment and wind and water erosion over millennia craving gorgeous patterns into the rock. After 20 minutes or so, the fissure narrows and a hush fills the crowd as you know you’re getting close. And then you glimpse your first sight of the Treasury, the iconic columns that Indiana Jones searched for in The Last Crusade, peeking out from between the rocks. You step into the opening, and the sheer scale of the Treasury overwhelms you. It’s only one of many such sites throughout Petra, which demands more days that I could muster to do it justice.   Beyond the Treasury lies an amphitheatre and the Royal Tombs that line either side of the cliffs. While only tombs and ruins remain, this open area helps you understand how Petra was once the Nabataean capital, a bustling settlement for traders and kings. Follow the tombs and the twists in the rock and climb the steps up the cliff and you’ll eventually reach Ad-Dayr, the Monastery, which is larger than the Treasury. But even if you don’t make it that far, you’ll find so much to dazzle you.  Nature that takes your breath away Standing in the northern hills on the border with Syria, you’d wonder whether you’d arrived in Spain or Portugal, such is the appeal of the vineyards gently rolling down the hillsides. Standing in the red sands of Wadi Rum in the south, where the night sky seems endless and the massive hills and sweeping dunes seem to whisper in the wind, and you’d think you’re on Mars or Arrakis. Taken together, these two parts of the country give you a picture of the diverse landscape of Jordan, and a taste of how striking its natural beauty is.  In fact, Wadi Rum is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. Under the full sun, you feel like you’re living out Dune or The Martian as you explore its sands. I remember racing across the dunes in the back of a pickup truck, the wind on my face, the sand blowing behind us, the black rocks standing vigil over the awesome landscape that stretched as far as we could see. We felt alive and awed by the beauty of this vivid desert. Then the sun fell and the night sky burst to life with all its glory and I realized that some places are even better in the dark. There are no words to capture the beauty of the Milky Way above Wadi Rum; all I ask is you go here and sit on the sand in the quiet of the night and look up for yourself.  People to make you feel at home I’ve discussed the historic and natural wonder of Jordan, but not enough people mention the culture. Jordanians are endlessly hospitable, taking pride in their cultural history and embodying the famous hospitality of the Arabs. Jordanians are gregarious, curious, and want to put you at ease. In the markets, you’ll notice that shopkeepers barter, which can take a bit of getting used to for westerners, but they’re also polite and not too pushy, enjoying the barter as a bit of good fun that makes the sale even more enjoyable.  Jordan’s food is also memorable, delicious, but that shouldn’t come as a surprise if you’ve ever been to the Middle East. Amman is rife with excellent restaurants, but you don’t need to go fancy to eat well in Jordan. In fact, I’ve never had better falafel than I had at the modest restaurant of Juniper Falafel in Wadi Musa. The warm, freshly fried chickpea balls were deliciously crisp on the outside and moist on the inside, bright green from all the fresh herbs mixed with the chickpeas and spices. The pita was so fluffy that it shamed what you find in a grocery store back home. It was even better enjoying this falafel looking out over Wadi Musa, spotting the Siq beneath you and the Tomb of Aaron, brother of Moses, in the hills in the far distance.  By Aren Bergstrom /goway.com