Al-Amn Magazine

book on pearling, Léonard Rosenthal wrote that the pearl industry was directly impacted by the Great Depression. The Bank of France announced in 1930 that they would not grant pearl merchants their typical credit—that same day, the value of pearls fell by 85%. Before then, pearls were Bahrain’s most significant export. In 1877, three–quarters of Bahrain’s total exports were pearls, and around 1904–1905, Bahrain was the most significant hub for pearl trading in the Gulf, with 97.3% of the Gulf’s pearls being traded through the country. Despite the decline of the natural pearling industry, Bahrain is the only country in the world to ban Pearl Cultivation. Danat, the Bahrain Institute for Pearls and Gemstones, was established in 2017, evolving from its predecessor, the Pearl and Gem Testing Laboratory of Bahrain. Gemologists there can differentiate between natural and cultivated pearls through the use of X–ray imaging.  Bahrain maintains its rich pearling heritage. Despite the decline in the pearling industry, the history of Bahraini is a point of great national pride, and efforts have been made for a revival of the national pearling culture, including the “Muharraq Nights” Festival, and the introduction of pearl diving licenses for both individuals and professional divers to harvest natural pearls. Once the centre of the global pearl trade, Bahrain exported the finest natural pearls in the world. A favorite of Queen Elizabeth II, the Bahrain Pearl Drop Earrings are one of the most famous examples of Bahraini Pearls. The two pearls affixed to the set of earrings comes from a gift of seven natural Bahraini pearls given to Queen Elizabeth II in 1947 as a wedding present from the then ruler of Bahrain, Shaikh Salman bin Hamad Al Khalifa.  There are three categories of pearls: synthetic, cultivated, and natural. Typically, saltwater pearls are more valuable than freshwater pearls due to their lengthy production time. Additionally, all saltwater pearls are bead–nucleated, while freshwater pearls can be either bead or tissue-nucleated.  Today, Mikimoto—a luxury jewellery Mikimoto’s revolutionary pearl cultivation method caused a decline in the natural pearl industry in the Gulf. Despite the enduring value of natural pearls, their rarity poses an issue for jewellers. A single strand of natural pearls, all equal in size and quality, can take years to create, because finding pearls that match is no easy feat. As natural pearls are formed without human intervention, it is difficult to find perfectly round, high–luster natural pearls. Finding pearls was not only difficult, but also strenuous and dangerous. Pearl divers could spend hours under the blistering sun, plunging into the sea, uncertain if the oysters they retrieved would bear any pearls. Men would spend months out at sea upon wooden dhows, diving during the day and resting together in the evenings. Breakfasts consisted of dates, tea, and coffee; dinners were freshly caught fish with rice and tea.   To boost morale, crew members often sang songs, Fijiri, together (listen to the album Bahrain: Fidjeri: Songs of the Pearl Divers to hear them firsthand). This involved singing, hand clapping, and playing music on drums and pottery jars. These songs live on through Bahrain’s oral traditions, passed down the generations.  Pearling is rooted in Bahrain’s heritage. In 2012, UNESCO designated Bahrain’s Pearling Path a cultural heritage site. Today, it’s a popular attraction in December for the “Muharraq Nights” Festival. Spanning approximately 2.2 miles, the path begins at Qal’at (Fort) Bu Maher—a fort which once played an important role in protecting Muharraq and its pearling basin. The other end of the path leads to Siyadi Majlis, a building that once hosted pearl merchants from Europe and Asia, and now houses a pearl museum displaying traditional pearl–diving tools alongside jewelry crafted with the finest Bahraini pearls. Mikimoto is a household name among jewelry enthusiasts, but many are unaware of Bahrain’s pearl legacy. Pearls formed a pillar upon which modern Bahraini society (and the luxury jewelry industry) was built, and their global impact should not be understated. Bahrain’s pearling legacy still endures. The 18–karat gold Arabic name necklaces popular among Bahraini women— adorned with tiny pearls where the dots of their names fall—are more than just a fashion statement. They’re an act of remembrance, proof of a resilient heritage.  While it’s incredible that pearls are so much more accessible now than ever before, the labor, craftmanship, and danger behind them must not be forgotten. Pearls built nations. They built legacies. The global jewelry industry wouldn’t be what it is today without them. 34st.com